Monday, December 31, 2007

Retro NY Times Article on Nacimiento Tour

On Tough Blocks, Divine Glitter by Patricia Leigh Brown (Dec 22, 2002 NY Times)
By PATRICIA LEIGH BROWN, New York Times

LOS ANGELES
IT is the season of the nacimiento, the time of year in Latino neighborhoods when porches and patches of lawn become dazzling home-grown Bethlehems. In East Los Angeles, just as in other Mexican-American communities, the deep creative urge that is Christmas flows like a seasonal torrent into the tin foil rivers and tinsel waterfalls of nacimientos, elaborate homemade Nativity scenes that subsume living rooms and whole yards.


In places like Boyle Heights, the city's easternmost neighborhood and 87 percent Latino, the nacimientos, a Mexican tradition that dates back to at least the 16th century, spring forth in baroque splendor beneath dolled-up ficus trees from which glittery snowflakes dangle. " The children today want $200 toys, which is hard for working people," said Maria R. Sandoval, 56, a home care provider whose simple family nacimiento is encircled by twinkling lights. " This gives them the deep gift of tradition."
The seasonal flurry of nacimientos in first-generation Mexican-American neighborhoods represents "a redefinition of urban space" to James T. Rojas, an urban planner and co-chairman of the Latino Urban Forum, a volunteer group of architects, community members and planners. (The forum will offer a public tour of East Los Angeles nacimientos on Jan. 5; www.theraretimes.com). "It's about personal expression and a sense of community, the social dialogue that happens on front porches and over fences," Mr. Rojas said. In neighborhoods plagued by gang activity and crime, the shrines are rarely vandalized. "They are respected," he added. "It's a sacred space."


Masterminded mostly by women, each nacimiento is a portrait of its maker. Thus Christmastime in the Mexican-American precincts of Los Angeles resembles the Academy Awards: no bit of shrubbery shall remain undecorated. In the Pico Aliso neighborhood a mile from downtown, Veronica Aguilar and 16 members of her family have assembled an idealized miniature world in front of their stucco house in which pebbled walkways meander past foil ponds and moss-shrouded milk-crate mountains. A devil lighted luridly by a red bulb animates the sidewalk.
By contrast, the nacimiento of Victoria Vazquez, 84, in Boyle Heights is a thicket of faith and tin foil flickering in a jungle of foliage. "I want people to think it's beautiful," she said of her spiritual Shangri-La, whose wattage fluctuates with the electricity bills.
Her nacimiento, like so many others, is a designated stop in las posadas, a widely practiced Mexican custom that takes place on the nine nights before Christmas. In emulation of Mary and Joseph seeking shelter in Bethlehem, neighbors and family members gather to make candlelight processions, usually ending at a church. Along the way, they visit nacimientos and have fiestas that include the breaking of piñatas and lots of tamales, pan dulce and hot chocolate. On Christmas Eve, the niño, or baby Jesus figure, is placed in the nacimiento manger.


On Amber Place in the neighborhood of El Sereno, 200 residents parade around the block carrying papier-mâché figures. They pass the sidewalk nacimiento created, with a competitive instinct, by Donald and Hilda Navarret, a husband-and-wife team who try to outdo each other. Mr. Navarret's blue lights and Mrs. Navarret's stars hover over the manger amid tuberoses, begonias, poinsettias and pine cones dipped in glitter.
The neighborhoods that are home to many Mexican immigrants are also some of the city's oldest and densest. A rarity for Los Angeles, they are pedestrian neighborhoods where art flourishes in street murals, hand-painted storefronts and shrines. The miniature nacimiento scenes are a combination of rural Mexican villages and the Holy Land. "You have to walk to appreciate them," Mr. Rojas said. "It's not like the suburbs where you drive by looking at the nice lights."


Sonia Ibarra, who lives in El Sereno, cut up old plastic window blinds and pasted the strips together to form a house, a fruit stand, a gazebo, a well and, finally, a church with a bell tower. The town of her imagination, with its blue duct-tape river, recalls her home in Jalisco. Her husband, José Guadalupe-Ibarra, 44, a produce shipper, said her handiwork "is like Universal Studios."
"It will help the children not to get lost in life," he said.


While their function is primarily religious, the Los Angeles nacimientos — which go up after Dec. 12, the feast day of Our Lady of Guadalupe, and usually come down after Jan. 6, the Feast of the Epiphany — also serve a cultural role. There are some common elements among the nacimientos, including the pilgrims Mary, Joseph and baby Jesus; a figure of the angel, the Three Kings; and often a cave made of mud or driftwood and a mountain with a tinsel waterfall. The figures, along with sheep, camels, cows, pigs, burros and other animals, are procured everywhere from Tijuana to Disneyland.


Many nacimientos are cultural mixed metaphors. In Monterey Park outside Los Angeles, for instance, Pedro Ruiz, a 56-year-old truck driver whose children were born in California, has divided his lawn into two zones: One is a riot of candy canes and plastic "Let It Snow" signs, and the other, a comparatively staid nacimiento. "This is America," he said, pointing to one side, "and this is Mexico," of the other.


Christmas abhors a vacuum, as Jovita Garcia, 71, who lives in Alhambra, proves in her living room every year. Her nacimiento, composed of more than 2,000 figures and counting, reflects the Mexican penchant for miniatures, sensuous surfaces and wild ornamental abandon. A two-tiered assemblage that takes months to construct, completely obscuring the fireplace, it combines heirloom ceramics with materials for the holy grottoes harvested during family vacations — pine cones from Yellowstone, sand and lava rocks from Hawaiian cruises, and tree trunks hauled back in the family station wagon from Sequoia National Park.
From its humble origins on her dining room-table, Mrs. Garcia's nacimiento has become a tableau of mesmerizing proportions, comprising thousands of tiny figures. While her sons-in-law live in fear of her daughters inheriting the collection, Mrs. Garcia prays that there not be a recurrence of the Northridge earthquake, the only quake-proofing she has being her deep faith. Her nacimiento includes tiny penguins, snowmen, swans and boats sailing on mirror lakes. "This is a part of the beauty God has given to the world," said Teresa Thompson, 48, the oldest of her eight children. "Now we're giving the beauty back to him.

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